{"id":1424,"date":"2017-05-20T14:17:00","date_gmt":"2017-05-20T14:17:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/?p=1424"},"modified":"2024-12-13T13:58:24","modified_gmt":"2024-12-13T13:58:24","slug":"gdansk-torun-and-malbork-poland","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/gdansk-torun-and-malbork-poland\/","title":{"rendered":"Gda\u0144sk, Toru\u0144 and Malbork, Poland"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Gda\u0144sk, Toru\u0144 and Malbork, Poland<\/h1>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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City and local notes: Line on Travel\u2019s vignettes of larger cities, well-known attractions, and short trips.<\/strong><\/p>

I visited Gda\u0144sk, Toru\u0144 and Malbork in a single 6-night trip from Warsaw north. That\u2019s not nearly enough time to get a feel for Gda\u0144sk in particular. I regret that in general and also because a young woman on staff at my hotel in Toru\u0144 gave me such enthusiastic recommendations for places to see. So, naturally I\u2019ve been thinking of an itinerary to include Gda\u0144sk on a future Baltic trip.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Gda\u0144sk<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Gda\u0144sk is a big city with an \u201cold town\u201d that you can visit in a couple of days. But there\u2019s a lot more to the city than that, and I gave myself too little time in Gda\u0144sk to allow saying much about it.<\/p>

What I can say is that Gda\u0144sk is a large Baltic-facing city that feels different from any other place I visited in Poland. It was a big, rich merchant city for centuries. Then for about 20 years after 1920, the oddly contrived Free City of Danzig. Then pummeled in World War II. The rebuilt city was the birthplace and heart of the Solidarity movement in the 1980s. And today Gda\u0144sk and the nearby beaches and resorts are pretty and vibrant.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Strolling along the Dlugi Targ\n<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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I visited in sunny but chilly mid-October so saved the beaches for another trip. Reception staff at the Mercure Hotel told me to come again in early September when the weather is still nice and most of the tourists have left. But even on a cold October weekend, there were a lot of people strolling along the Dlugi Targ (the Long Market) which is both a square-like gathering place and a way to the river ports. The Gothic and Baroque merchant houses lining the Dlugi Targ have been restored to show the city\u2019s historic wealth as a Baltic trading power. It\u2019s the old town\u2019s place to be. I read a tourist site that compares Dlugi Targ to Las Ramblas in Barcelona. Maybe. I didn\u2019t exactly feel that. It\u2019s Las Ramblas on the Baltic.<\/p>

Many of the sights of interest are along the Dlugi Targ or around a corner. When I visited, the Dlugi Targ was vibrant and crowded. Restaurants I looked into at lunch time were full, restaurant hawkers were still annoying passers-by, and amber sellers touted festoons of suspect jewelry. I visited the helpful Tourist Information Office near the Green Gate by the river (where staff speak good English), had an interesting chat about Gda\u0144sk and the U.S., and bought a \u201cdeluxe\u201d tourist map for about U.S. $1.50. This map was my guide to at least seeing the exterior of all the highlighted buildings in my short time there. As one must, I viewed the famous Gda\u0144sk Crane. The Crane is a 15th century hoist for cargo upgraded in the 17th century, blown to pieces in World War II and reconstructed after 1945. It\u2019s unique in Europe, but only takes a short while to visit.<\/p>

Brick Gothic buildings abound around the Baltic Sea with its dearth of available stone for building, and in Poland some of the buildings are the biggest of their kind. Just down the road in Malbork the Teutonic Knights built the biggest medieval castle in the world \u2013 perhaps the biggest castle in the world \u2013 all of red brick. In Gda\u0144sk, the restored St. Mary\u2019s Basilica is said to be the biggest brick church in the world. I could sense the vastness inside the bright, whitewashed nave. The Gda\u0144sk In Your Pocket Guide says it holds 25,000 people. But it was mainly from my room at the Mercure with its view of the old town that I could see how St. Mary\u2019s dwarfs everything else around.<\/p>

I also went into several other restored churches, including St. Catherine\u2019s, the oldest church in the city. It was begun in the 1200s but badly damaged in World War II. It was restored but unhappily, the church was all but destroyed again in a 2006 fire and is now only partially re-restored. It deserves a visit because of its historic importance and lesson in persistence. The 19th century central market was nearby. There were vegetable stands outside which are always interesting to peruse (buy sunflower seeds still on the flower) but inside there didn\u2019t seem much worth exploring (unless you want to check out the butcher shops on the lower level).<\/p>

I hadn\u2019t gone to another historic church, St. Bridget\u2019s, but decided to duck in on my last evening in town. Please visit St. Bridget\u2019s. Like other churches, the ancient St. Bridget\u2019s was destroyed in World War II. It was finally restored in the 1970s. One of the must-sees in St. Bridget\u2019s is the so-called amber altar. I had envisioned something that looked like a Renaissance or Gothic altar, a table or a block, but this is different, modern, with several large figures carved from amber of different colors arranged among soaring steel bars. The plan is to add more figures. But even more than the altar, the history of the church and Solidarity engaged me. The church supported the striking workers, and murdered priest Jerzy Popie\u0142uszko, who supported Solidarity, is buried in the church. There\u2019s an ongoing video related to Solidarity. The Katy\u0144 memorial was also sobering. If you don\u2019t know about the Katy\u0144 massacre, give it a quick search online, or for a wrenching and emotional film account, see the Oscar-nominated 2009 film Katy\u0144.<\/p>

Sleeping and eating.<\/strong>\u00a0The Mercure Hotel where I stayed was at the edge of the old town and I had a panoramic view. I watched the nearly full moon\u2019s progress, the illuminated Ferris wheel and one night, fireworks in the distance. It was an easy walk to the sights and a real prize was a shopping center across the street with a grocery store, a book store and a variety of other shops. And, although I found this near the end of my short stay, there\u2019s a nearby underpass that makes it convenient to walk to the trolley and the train station below the impossible highway that runs right through town.<\/p>

I had breakfast from the Mercure\u2019s huge buffet. I wasn\u2019t there long enough to have many other meals. I \u201cdined\u201d from the grocery store, a fast-food vegetarian or organic place in the mall, at Pellowski bakery and tea room, and Lookier Caf\u00e9. Pellowski gets the whole range of reviews online, from 5- to 1-star. I had hot sandwiches, desserts and tea there and everything was good. Like other places they tolerated my attempted Polish. I also enjoyed the daily special (cod with fries) at the cute Lookier Caf\u00e9 on the main street. Perhaps I enjoyed the caf\u00e9 more than the lunch, but it was completely adequate. It was a cold day. I had finally picked out Lookier but there were no tables inside. The waitress asked if I minded an outside seat by the heater. Hmm. Even by the heater it was still cold, but she brought me a gray wool blanket that I wrapped around my legs. About the time my soup course came though, she told me a table had opened inside if I wanted to move. The adventure of eating wrapped in a restaurant blanket was attractive, but yes, I went inside.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Toru\u0144<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Toru\u0144 is a regional capital and sizeable city on the Vistula River with its medieval heart intact \u2013 its Gothic era merchant city was undamaged in World War II. Old Toru\u0144 is chock full of big red brick churches, a town hall that\u2019s been there since the 14th century, medieval merchant houses, the Copernicus family home and a gingerbread bakery that\u2019s been turning out its secret recipe since the 1300s if not longer. It\u2019s one of the oldest cities in Poland and a gem that you can see easily in two days without hurrying.<\/p>

I stayed almost two full days but I still hadn\u2019t seen everything when I left, partly because I spent time wandering around outside when it turned sunny, devoted a lot of time to enjoying the wonderful meals at my hotel, and ventured out of the old town for a spell of modernity. My greatest omission was not getting into the Old Town Hall. I arrived there ten minutes before it opened. It appeared that a large group was arriving for a meeting and the woman at the till told me to come back after 10 minutes. But I didn\u2019t want to just stand around so went to the Copernicus house instead and never got back to the Town Hall. I miss things sometimes.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Torun City Hall\n<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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But I did walk into every one of the churches in town, including the huge cathedral, begun in the 1200s. Red brick on the outside, whitewashed on the inside, soaring and light even on a cloudy day. I wandered around while a school group heard an animated lecture that reverberated through the space. Read the guidebooks and enjoy all the details. At St. James\u2019s church, a man followed me in and pointed at the 5-z\u0142oty contribution sign. I didn\u2019t have enough small bills or change to make five, so we settled on all the small money in my wallet. \u201cAre you from Germany?\u201d he asked in Polish. I understood that. I answered that I was from the U.S. \u201cThe United States. The United States of America,\u201d he said in English, and smiled. When I left, he handed me copies of the Chaplet of Divine Mercy. \u201cEnglish,\u201d he said and smiled again.<\/p>

Whether or not the great astronomer lived in the Copernicus House, it was the family home. Nicholas Copernicus was from Toru\u0144, and the house is an appropriately ancient and evocative museum. I also went to the local history museum, which covers the entire span of Toru\u0144\u2019s long existence and is very nicely done. The challenge for me was that a couple of times I wanted to skip an exhibit and move on to the next, but someone would appear and point me back in the right direction. \u201cTo,\u201d said a woman twice my size, pointing me where to go. They wanted me not to miss anything! Learn about Toru\u0144\u2019s origins, its days as a rich Hanseatic city, the Swedish Wars, World War II, everything. Don\u2019t miss it. Just plan to stay until you\u2019ve seen it all.<\/p>

I ate lots of gingerbread \u2013 you really must here where they practically invented it. I found it good, cakier and more subtly flavored than I expected and I was happy to find it in Warsaw grocery stores. I bought a stash for myself. Alas, I ran out long ago. At night I walked around town enjoying the illuminated buildings, the aroma from coal fires, brightly lit flower stalls beside the Old Town Hall. People coming and going from Mass at the Jesuit church. The cheerful Tiger Store in a shopping arcade. A nocturnal walking tour group that stood at the Copernicus House.<\/p>

Much of the charm of Toru\u0144 centered on my hotel, La Petite Fleur, where I bought room and meals. There\u2019s a lot of verticality to the hotel \u2013 from the Gothic era cellar where we ate, to my room a couple of floors up a wooden spiral staircase tightly wound around a wooden column. My single room was narrow (not twice the width of my bed) but fully functional and comfortable. And oh, did I eat well. A beautiful breakfast buffet including cooked options, dinner mid-afternoon and supper from 8 PM. Sample meals: cream of parsley root soup, chicken stuffed with Roquefort wrapped in paper-thin ham, little carrot globes with black sesame seeds, and small mounds of golden mashed potatoes. Another was onion soup with grilled croutons on the side, pork loin with mushroom gravy, duchess potatoes, and green beans wrapped in bacon. There was always a lovely dessert which I always ate. Obviously not vegetarian meals but these people are good and you can ask.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Malbork<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The Teutonic Knights knew how to build a castle and when they came to Poland in the 1200s to help subdue the local pagans, they started on the fortifications in Malbork. Later on, when the Teutonic Order moved its HQ to Malbork the castle was expanded, making it the largest medieval castle in the world, the largest castle in Europe and some lists show it as the largest castle, medieval or not, in the world. All in red brick. It\u2019s hard to describe how big it is. Enormous. The castle fell into disrepair following a series of wars long after the Teutonic Knights had decamped. It was brought back into shape in the 19th century in time to be badly damaged in World War II. The castle is its old self again. You\u2019d never know about its traumas but for the large 1945 picture outside.<\/p>

I walked to the castle with a woman who had also come by train from Gda\u0144sk and we wound up getting there more or less by dead reckoning, and not at all directly. Feeling lost, we found a man working on his car in an apartment parking lot. With difficulty we asked where the castle was. He figured out what we wanted, smiled and pointed to the end of the parking lot. So our first view was unexpected and oblique, and it was breathtaking. Amazing, outsized, beyond what I had expected. If you come to the castle by the ticket office, the whole thing is stretched out in front of you.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Just a corner of Malbork Castle\n<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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The woman I walked with didn\u2019t take the audio guide included with the ticket. I did. It\u2019s automatic and cued to the space you enter, whether a garden or interior room. It also knows when you\u2019re trying to get away with something, like skipping part of the tour. The whole tour takes a while and the \u201cguide\u201d even suggests that you stop for a lunch break. I skipped lunch and headed on to the upper castle, but \u2013 and this happens \u2013 I was getting castled out and decided to skip a section. \u201cWait,\u201d said my audio guide, \u201cYou\u2019re about to miss something important.\u201d That was weird. I hurried into the courtyard where he started his courtyard commentary again. I suggest planning your day to stay for the whole tour. I don\u2019t expect I\u2019ll be back there to finish mine. But I think I saw the most important things and left appropriately overwhelmed.<\/p>

Trip date:<\/strong> October 2016<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Gda\u0144sk, Toru\u0144 and Malbork, Poland City and local notes: Line on Travel\u2019s vignettes of larger cities, well-known attractions, and short trips. I visited Gda\u0144sk, Toru\u0144 and Malbork in a single 6-night trip from Warsaw north. That\u2019s not nearly enough time to get a feel for Gda\u0144sk in particular. I regret that in general and also because a young woman on staff at my hotel in Toru\u0144 gave me such enthusiastic recommendations for places to see. So, naturally I\u2019ve been thinking of an itinerary to include Gda\u0144sk on a future Baltic trip. Gda\u0144sk Gda\u0144sk is a big city with an \u201cold town\u201d that you can visit in a couple of days. But there\u2019s a lot more to the city than that, and I gave myself too little time in Gda\u0144sk to allow saying much about it. What I can say is that Gda\u0144sk is a large Baltic-facing city that feels different from any other place I visited in Poland. It was a big, rich merchant city for centuries. Then for about 20 years after 1920, the oddly contrived Free City of Danzig. Then pummeled in World War II. The rebuilt city was the birthplace and heart of the Solidarity movement in the 1980s. And today Gda\u0144sk and the nearby beaches and resorts are pretty and vibrant. Strolling along the Dlugi Targ I visited in sunny but chilly mid-October so saved the beaches for another trip. Reception staff at the Mercure Hotel told me to come again in early September when the weather is still nice and most of the tourists have left. But even on a cold October weekend, there were a lot of people strolling along the Dlugi Targ (the Long Market) which is both a square-like gathering place and a way to the river ports. The Gothic and Baroque merchant houses lining the Dlugi Targ have been restored to show the city\u2019s historic wealth as a Baltic trading power. It\u2019s the old town\u2019s place to be. I read a tourist site that compares Dlugi Targ to Las Ramblas in Barcelona. Maybe. I didn\u2019t exactly feel that. It\u2019s Las Ramblas on the Baltic. Many of the sights of interest are along the Dlugi Targ or around a corner. When I visited, the Dlugi Targ was vibrant and crowded. Restaurants I looked into at lunch time were full, restaurant hawkers were still annoying passers-by, and amber sellers touted festoons of suspect jewelry. I visited the helpful Tourist Information Office near the Green Gate by the river (where staff speak good English), had an interesting chat about Gda\u0144sk and the U.S., and bought a \u201cdeluxe\u201d tourist map for about U.S. $1.50. This map was my guide to at least seeing the exterior of all the highlighted buildings in my short time there. As one must, I viewed the famous Gda\u0144sk Crane. The Crane is a 15th century hoist for cargo upgraded in the 17th century, blown to pieces in World War II and reconstructed after 1945. It\u2019s unique in Europe, but only takes a short while to visit. Brick Gothic buildings abound around the Baltic Sea with its dearth of available stone for building, and in Poland some of the buildings are the biggest of their kind. Just down the road in Malbork the Teutonic Knights built the biggest medieval castle in the world \u2013 perhaps the biggest castle in the world \u2013 all of red brick. In Gda\u0144sk, the restored St. Mary\u2019s Basilica is said to be the biggest brick church in the world. I could sense the vastness inside the bright, whitewashed nave. The Gda\u0144sk In Your Pocket Guide says it holds 25,000 people. But it was mainly from my room at the Mercure with its view of the old town that I could see how St. Mary\u2019s dwarfs everything else around. I also went into several other restored churches, including St. Catherine\u2019s, the oldest church in the city. It was begun in the 1200s but badly damaged in World War II. It was restored but unhappily, the church was all but destroyed again in a 2006 fire and is now only partially re-restored. It deserves a visit because of its historic importance and lesson in persistence. The 19th century central market was nearby. There were vegetable stands outside which are always interesting to peruse (buy sunflower seeds still on the flower) but inside there didn\u2019t seem much worth exploring (unless you want to check out the butcher shops on the lower level). I hadn\u2019t gone to another historic church, St. Bridget\u2019s, but decided to duck in on my last evening in town. Please visit St. Bridget\u2019s. Like other churches, the ancient St. Bridget\u2019s was destroyed in World War II. It was finally restored in the 1970s. One of the must-sees in St. Bridget\u2019s is the so-called amber altar. I had envisioned something that looked like a Renaissance or Gothic altar, a table or a block, but this is different, modern, with several large figures carved from amber of different colors arranged among soaring steel bars. The plan is to add more figures. But even more than the altar, the history of the church and Solidarity engaged me. The church supported the striking workers, and murdered priest Jerzy Popie\u0142uszko, who supported Solidarity, is buried in the church. There\u2019s an ongoing video related to Solidarity. The Katy\u0144 memorial was also sobering. If you don\u2019t know about the Katy\u0144 massacre, give it a quick search online, or for a wrenching and emotional film account, see the Oscar-nominated 2009 film Katy\u0144. Sleeping and eating.\u00a0The Mercure Hotel where I stayed was at the edge of the old town and I had a panoramic view. I watched the nearly full moon\u2019s progress, the illuminated Ferris wheel and one night, fireworks in the distance. It was an easy walk to the sights and a real prize was a shopping center across the street with a grocery store, a book store and a variety of other shops. And, although I found this near the end of<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1426,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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