{"id":1605,"date":"2017-05-20T16:05:00","date_gmt":"2017-05-20T16:05:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/?p=1605"},"modified":"2024-12-13T13:45:49","modified_gmt":"2024-12-13T13:45:49","slug":"neris-les-bains-off-the-tourist-trail-in-france","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/neris-les-bains-off-the-tourist-trail-in-france\/","title":{"rendered":"N\u00e9ris-les-Bains: Off the Tourist Trail in France"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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N\u00e9ris-les-Bains: off the tourist trail in France<\/h1>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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The small towns and pretty countryside in France\u2019s center have all the history, churches, cheese, wine and bread you desire, but most aren\u2019t on prominent lists of places to visit. And yet you can have a lovely time, with plenty to do for a long weekend before you move on to your next stop. Or stay even longer if you want to settle into the rhythm of a place. One of my favorite towns is N\u00e9ris-les-Bains, not right smack in the middle of the country, but close enough. N\u00e9ris is three or more hours from Paris depending on where you start. Another four plus hours and you can be in Montpellier, after a drive through some beautiful, desolate country and across my favorite bridge, the Millau Viaduct.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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I probably wouldn\u2019t have found N\u00e9ris<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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I probably wouldn\u2019t have found N\u00e9ris if friends hadn\u2019t moved there from Nevers a long time ago. The first time I visited, I arrived at night after we drove from Paris. I\u2019ve loved it since that first morning when I opened my shutters and looked across the park and rooftops to the mairie on the hillside opposite. As a foreigner, I felt unique back then. Even now, it\u2019s likely that not many foreigners visit N\u00e9ris. The French are another matter. N\u00e9ris-les-Bains is a spa town that attracts people from around France who come for \u201cthe cure\u201d during the half-year cure season. And while N\u00e9ris might not be a major destination, it\u2019s well worth a stop. The town itself has attractions and the area around N\u00e9ris is loaded with sights that will entice visitors looking for more than the usual \u201cmust-sees.\u201d It\u2019s a quiet place to relax, go to the spa, and immerse yourself in France off the beaten trail.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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A fountain near the spa<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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N\u00e9ris-les-Bains \u2013 a thermal town in France\u2019s heartland<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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I find N\u00e9ris pretty and unpretentious about its long history. For a start, the church in N\u00e9ris-les-Bains is going on 1,000 years old. The little Romanesque church is across the street from the bakeries, charcuterie, butcher shop and wine store. A miniature of I.M. Pei\u2019s Louvre pyramid covers Gallo-Roman graves by the parking lot next to the church. Down at the municipal swimming pool, there are Roman swimming pools alongside a pretty park. As the park continues across the street into the center, the Belle \u00c9poque theater and casino face small hotels, guest houses and shops. The park ends at the spa where people come for \u201cthe cure.\u201d N\u00e9ris is also in the midst of rolling farm country with walking trails, and day trips galore to places that will amaze, partly because you might not have heard of them. Get a list of all the Romanesque churches in the area and go for it! And driving south, you quickly start climbing until your ears pop, up through some grand wilderness scenery toward the Massif Central, France\u2019s dramatic central mountainous plateau with its extinct volcanoes.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Spa architecture\n<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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There\u2019s been a town here at N\u00e9ris for over 2,000 years because of the hot springs. The water is 127 degrees Fahrenheit (about 53 Celsius) when it emerges from 15,000 feet down. Local Gauls settled around the hot springs a long time before the Romans showed up and built their baths. For a while, N\u00e9ris was a prosperous Roman settlement. And while the town\u2019s fortunes have cycled up and down over time, the town has never disappeared. Now it\u2019s a pretty place of about 2,700.\u00a0<\/p>

N\u00e9ris\u2019 population grows during the April through October spa season when curistes come to the springs for therapies. There are spa options for recreation and relaxation along with the therapeutic treatments for rheumatology, neurology and anxiety conditions. Relax and pretend you live here. Sometimes I just sit in the park, and if it\u2019s the cure season, a lot of curistes will say hello. They probably think I\u2019m there for the cure, too. There are worse things to do on a pretty afternoon. But I have found plenty of other things to do, too.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Getting to N\u00e9ris and staying there \u2013 the basics\n<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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If you\u2019re driving from Paris to the Mediterranean down the middle, you might drive through N\u00e9ris. And yes, you need a car to get here without taking a really long walk or an infrequent local bus. The train reaches only as far as Montlu\u00e7on, 5 miles (8 km) downhill and the closest airport is a little over an hour away in Clermont-Ferrand. If you\u2019re exploring France\u2019s center or heading south, stop in N\u00e9ris and enjoy the pretty countryside for a short stay, or use N\u00e9ris as a base to see the lovely \u2013 and probably under-visited \u2013 sights in the area.<\/p>

Language.<\/strong> You don\u2019t have to speak much French but it helps loads if you brush up on any French you\u2019ve forgotten, or take an online or audio course. I was advised that while French helps, you can make yourself understood without it, although speaking French is part of the fun. But if you don\u2019t know French, there are people in N\u00e9ris with English skills, such as at Les N\u00e9riades spa and the wine store (La Cave des Toqu\u00e9s). I haven\u2019t stayed in a hotel but I expect hotels have English speakers, as they appear from TripAdvisor reviews to have occasional UK guests.<\/p>

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Belle \u00c9poque theater\n<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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If you need serious translation help, or want an English speaker to show you around, ask at the nice Tourist Office. A local English speaker may be available for a reasonable fee. On the subject of speaking French, I saw a short article in the Wall Street Journal about the power of \u201cbonjour.\u201d If you can say nothing else at least make a practice of greeting people. It\u2019s the nice thing to do. (\u201cFrom the Expat Blog: The Power of \u2018Bonjour<\/a>\u2019\u201d, Wall Street Journal, February 2, 2016.)<\/p>

When not to go.<\/strong> Locals say don\u2019t come in November. I\u2019ve been there in November, but I was staying with friends. Reason not to go: the spa season has ended, and a lot of caf\u00e9s and shops close. After a long season, the owners take a break.<\/p>

Where to stay.<\/strong> There are plenty of places to stay \u2013 hotels, guest houses, cottages, apartments, camping. I understand that during the spa season the many local rental cottages and apartments align their rental cycles to coincide with the spa\u2019s three-week treatment periods. Unless you\u2019re hiding out, writing your novel or really do want to immerse yourself, I don\u2019t know that I can suggest a three-week program for N\u00e9ris. Check hotels for shorter-term stays \u2013 there are a few on TripAdvisor \u2013 Mona Lisa, Hotel du Parc des Rivalles, Hotel Le Centre et Proxima. Also look on the N\u00e9ris Tourist Office website for lodging options (http:\/\/www.ot-neris-les-bains.fr\/) or do a quick online search.<\/p>

Going local.<\/strong> The airy, efficient Visitors Center has books and other materials plus information on local events. On my most recent trip I bought a new history of N\u00e9ris and a book of hiking trails. (Both are in French.) The trails look easy enough to follow, although I wouldn\u2019t head out on one of the more distant hikes without talking to a local, say, at your hotel. But for the casual to moderately adventurous hiker there are lots of opportunities in the environs of N\u00e9ris, plus more challenging mountain and river hikes nearby.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Montlu\u00e7on\n<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Montlu\u00e7on is an industrial town down the hill from N\u00e9ris that at first glance might not impress. But in the medieval center of town you\u2019ll find the restored remnant of a Bourbon castle, a terrific bookstore (Le Talon d\u2019Achille), some medieval churches, and cozied up beside the medieval buildings, the new and thoroughly modern Montlu\u00e7on Museum of Popular Music, or Mupop. There are good restaurants scattered in the old and modern streets, and Montlu\u00e7on is a good place to shop for anything you might need for the rest of your trip. You can also get things that you forgot to bring, like a bathing suit for the spa.<\/p>

For more about N\u00e9ris, see my posts \u201cPatrimony and architecture\u201d and \u201cSome things to do for a short stay.\u201d<\/p>

Trip date:<\/strong> Most recent October 2015<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Climbing to the High Place of Sacrifice\n<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

N\u00e9ris-les-Bains: off the tourist trail in France The small towns and pretty countryside in France\u2019s center have all the history, churches, cheese, wine and bread you desire, but most aren\u2019t on prominent lists of places to visit. And yet you can have a lovely time, with plenty to do for a long weekend before you move on to your next stop. Or stay even longer if you want to settle into the rhythm of a place. One of my favorite towns is N\u00e9ris-les-Bains, not right smack in the middle of the country, but close enough. N\u00e9ris is three or more hours from Paris depending on where you start. Another four plus hours and you can be in Montpellier, after a drive through some beautiful, desolate country and across my favorite bridge, the Millau Viaduct. I probably wouldn\u2019t have found N\u00e9ris I probably wouldn\u2019t have found N\u00e9ris if friends hadn\u2019t moved there from Nevers a long time ago. The first time I visited, I arrived at night after we drove from Paris. I\u2019ve loved it since that first morning when I opened my shutters and looked across the park and rooftops to the mairie on the hillside opposite. As a foreigner, I felt unique back then. Even now, it\u2019s likely that not many foreigners visit N\u00e9ris. The French are another matter. N\u00e9ris-les-Bains is a spa town that attracts people from around France who come for \u201cthe cure\u201d during the half-year cure season. And while N\u00e9ris might not be a major destination, it\u2019s well worth a stop. The town itself has attractions and the area around N\u00e9ris is loaded with sights that will entice visitors looking for more than the usual \u201cmust-sees.\u201d It\u2019s a quiet place to relax, go to the spa, and immerse yourself in France off the beaten trail. A fountain near the spa N\u00e9ris-les-Bains \u2013 a thermal town in France\u2019s heartland I find N\u00e9ris pretty and unpretentious about its long history. For a start, the church in N\u00e9ris-les-Bains is going on 1,000 years old. The little Romanesque church is across the street from the bakeries, charcuterie, butcher shop and wine store. A miniature of I.M. Pei\u2019s Louvre pyramid covers Gallo-Roman graves by the parking lot next to the church. Down at the municipal swimming pool, there are Roman swimming pools alongside a pretty park. As the park continues across the street into the center, the Belle \u00c9poque theater and casino face small hotels, guest houses and shops. The park ends at the spa where people come for \u201cthe cure.\u201d N\u00e9ris is also in the midst of rolling farm country with walking trails, and day trips galore to places that will amaze, partly because you might not have heard of them. Get a list of all the Romanesque churches in the area and go for it! And driving south, you quickly start climbing until your ears pop, up through some grand wilderness scenery toward the Massif Central, France\u2019s dramatic central mountainous plateau with its extinct volcanoes. Spa architecture There\u2019s been a town here at N\u00e9ris for over 2,000 years because of the hot springs. The water is 127 degrees Fahrenheit (about 53 Celsius) when it emerges from 15,000 feet down. Local Gauls settled around the hot springs a long time before the Romans showed up and built their baths. For a while, N\u00e9ris was a prosperous Roman settlement. And while the town\u2019s fortunes have cycled up and down over time, the town has never disappeared. Now it\u2019s a pretty place of about 2,700.\u00a0 N\u00e9ris\u2019 population grows during the April through October spa season when curistes come to the springs for therapies. There are spa options for recreation and relaxation along with the therapeutic treatments for rheumatology, neurology and anxiety conditions. Relax and pretend you live here. Sometimes I just sit in the park, and if it\u2019s the cure season, a lot of curistes will say hello. They probably think I\u2019m there for the cure, too. There are worse things to do on a pretty afternoon. But I have found plenty of other things to do, too. Getting to N\u00e9ris and staying there \u2013 the basics If you\u2019re driving from Paris to the Mediterranean down the middle, you might drive through N\u00e9ris. And yes, you need a car to get here without taking a really long walk or an infrequent local bus. The train reaches only as far as Montlu\u00e7on, 5 miles (8 km) downhill and the closest airport is a little over an hour away in Clermont-Ferrand. If you\u2019re exploring France\u2019s center or heading south, stop in N\u00e9ris and enjoy the pretty countryside for a short stay, or use N\u00e9ris as a base to see the lovely \u2013 and probably under-visited \u2013 sights in the area. Language. You don\u2019t have to speak much French but it helps loads if you brush up on any French you\u2019ve forgotten, or take an online or audio course. I was advised that while French helps, you can make yourself understood without it, although speaking French is part of the fun. But if you don\u2019t know French, there are people in N\u00e9ris with English skills, such as at Les N\u00e9riades spa and the wine store (La Cave des Toqu\u00e9s). I haven\u2019t stayed in a hotel but I expect hotels have English speakers, as they appear from TripAdvisor reviews to have occasional UK guests. \u00a0 Belle \u00c9poque theater If you need serious translation help, or want an English speaker to show you around, ask at the nice Tourist Office. A local English speaker may be available for a reasonable fee. On the subject of speaking French, I saw a short article in the Wall Street Journal about the power of \u201cbonjour.\u201d If you can say nothing else at least make a practice of greeting people. It\u2019s the nice thing to do. (\u201cFrom the Expat Blog: The Power of \u2018Bonjour\u2019\u201d, Wall Street Journal, February 2, 2016.) When not to go. Locals say don\u2019t come in November. I\u2019ve been there in November, but I was staying with<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1606,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[20],"tags":[53,54,55],"class_list":["post-1605","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-europe","tag-central-france","tag-french-spa-towns","tag-montlucon"],"yoast_head":"\nN\u00e9ris-les-Bains: Discover the Hidden Spa Town in France<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Explore N\u00e9ris-les-Bains, a charming spa town in France\u2019s heartland, perfect for a relaxing, off-the-beaten-path getaway.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/staging\/8847\/neris-les-bains-off-the-tourist-trail-in-france\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" 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