{"id":1621,"date":"2017-05-20T16:07:00","date_gmt":"2017-05-20T16:07:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/?p=1621"},"modified":"2024-12-13T13:43:30","modified_gmt":"2024-12-13T13:43:30","slug":"neris-les-bains-france-patrimony-and-architecture","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/neris-les-bains-france-patrimony-and-architecture\/","title":{"rendered":"N\u00e9ris-les-Bains, France: Patrimony and Architecture"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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N\u00e9ris-les-Bains, France: patrimony and architecture<\/h1>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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N\u00e9ris-les-Bains, one of the spa towns of central France, is full of sights. Some, like the church, are right in front of you. Others take walking around. (For more on N\u00e9ris, see my post \u201cN\u00e9ris-les-Bains: off the tourist trail in France.<\/a>\u201d<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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The church of St. George\n<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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I doubt that the town\u2019s venerable church is in many \u2013 or any \u2013 guidebooks, but it should be. It has Roman roots (part of one wall is Gallo-Roman) and most of the building dates from the 11th and 12th centuries. The center aisle has been worn to a trough by a millennium of parishioners.<\/p>

Until 2015, I\u2019d been inside a few times but had never really seen the inside well. It\u2019s early Romanesque with tiny windows, and it\u2019s pretty dim. Sunlight stops just inside the open doors the way it would stop at the mouth of a small cave. I\u2019d walked around with an ineffectual flashlight, following an old guide, \u201cEglise de N\u00e9ris-les-Bains\u201d that I must have bought at the old Visitor Center or the church itself. Interesting, but the church\u2019s history was still hiding from me. And then a parishioner told me to come for Saturday night Mass. (Mass is on Saturday night because the priest serves several parishes. I wonder who gets him on Sunday morning?) I could see the inside lit. What a transformation! The light made the ancient walls dance in gray and taupe the way water poured on stones makes them glisten. The sweetness of antiquity. People in the church made it seem bigger and happier. Worth going, even if you\u2019re not Catholic. After Mass, the church goes to sleep again, so if you don\u2019t go to Mass, take a bright flashlight.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Church of Saint-Georges<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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For something more modern, outside the church by the parking lot there\u2019s a structure that looks like a baby version of I.M. Pei\u2019s Louvre pyramid. This covers a modest, visible portion of the Merovingian cemetery. You can see a few sarcophagi carved out of stone blocks from the ruins of the Gallo-Roman city.<\/p>

Maison du Patrimonie \u2013 small but nice archaeological museum<\/strong><\/p>

On the other side of the church from the pyramid, there is an interesting archaeological museum in a 15th century house. The museum collection is small but exhibits are well displayed and all locally connected, covering from Roman times to the Middle Ages. On my most recent visit to N\u00e9ris, the museum seemed short staffed. The same friendly woman watched the doors, greeted guests and gave tours. When I arrived, there was a handmade sign on the door saying she was giving a tour. Two other patrons and I waited outside in the autumn chill until the tour finished. I think we all nearly gave up, but I\u2019m glad we didn\u2019t. The museum was pleasant, instructional, and warm.<\/p>

If you\u2019re into motorcycles, you might recognize the name Labre. Paul Labre lived in the house from about 1920 until he died in 1961. Paul and his brother Fran\u00e7ois were motorcycle pioneers, developing their first version in 1897. Paul\u2019s daughters were the last to live in the house. The living spaces of the house (now the museum) seem cozy and relatively modern. A local artist was exhibiting in the cellar, which is where you can see the 15th century bones of the house.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Other sites, ancient and modern<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Gallo-Roman pools.<\/strong> The three Gallo-Roman swimming pools behind the Visitor Center and modern swimming pool are from the 1st and 2nd centuries. Archaeology tells us that they were originally covered with marble and surrounded by porticoes.<\/p>

Amphitheater traces.<\/strong> Where there were Romans, there was an amphitheater. Across the road from the pools and Visitor Center, the streets run in semicircles and the terraced earth of a park recalls the basic shape of the 315-foot (96-meter) diameter building.<\/p>

Baths.<\/strong> Les Thermes baths aren\u2019t Roman but they\u2019re built on the site of Roman baths. The first stone of today\u2019s Les Thermes was laid in 1826 by the Duchess of Angoul\u00eame. It\u2019s here that the curistes go for the cure, and Les Thermes may also offer non-medical treatments. (I suggest going across the square to Les N\u00e9riades.) There is a small neoclassical Caesar Pavilion built over the source of the thermal spring but it\u2019s not in use.<\/p>

Learn more about Roman N\u00e9ris at the Maison du Patrimonie<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Gallo-Roman pools<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Casino and Theater<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The Belle \u00c9poque building was competed in 1898. Neris casino and opera houseThe 300-seat theater was restored in 1987 and offers a variety of shows during the season. But I seem never to be there when a show\u2019s on so I admire the building from the outside. The adjacent casino seems like it\u2019s always open, but I haven\u2019t tried my luck.<\/p>

Train Station.<\/strong> The pink sandstone and granite train station with its colorful tile roof was built between 1929 and 1931. The idea was to provide for the influx of spa visitors. The rail experiment didn\u2019t last long. Now, the impressive viaducts and bridges that carried tracks over the hilly terrain carry the rail bed walking and bike trail with its pretty views.<\/p>

Pretty Houses.<\/strong> Along with the train station, the town has appealing houses from the Belle \u00c9poque and later. There are a couple of odd houses, too (a kind of enormous Pyrenees chalet for one). A walk around town is pleasant; the houses are all different. One of my favorites faces a small flowery green space and in its back yard, there\u2019s an enormous, breathtaking cedar, which I\u2019m glad isn\u2019t leaning over my house.<\/p>

Trip date:<\/strong> Most recent October 2015<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Belle \u00c9poque building<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

N\u00e9ris-les-Bains, France: patrimony and architecture N\u00e9ris-les-Bains, one of the spa towns of central France, is full of sights. Some, like the church, are right in front of you. Others take walking around. (For more on N\u00e9ris, see my post \u201cN\u00e9ris-les-Bains: off the tourist trail in France.\u201d The church of St. George I doubt that the town\u2019s venerable church is in many \u2013 or any \u2013 guidebooks, but it should be. It has Roman roots (part of one wall is Gallo-Roman) and most of the building dates from the 11th and 12th centuries. The center aisle has been worn to a trough by a millennium of parishioners. Until 2015, I\u2019d been inside a few times but had never really seen the inside well. It\u2019s early Romanesque with tiny windows, and it\u2019s pretty dim. Sunlight stops just inside the open doors the way it would stop at the mouth of a small cave. I\u2019d walked around with an ineffectual flashlight, following an old guide, \u201cEglise de N\u00e9ris-les-Bains\u201d that I must have bought at the old Visitor Center or the church itself. Interesting, but the church\u2019s history was still hiding from me. And then a parishioner told me to come for Saturday night Mass. (Mass is on Saturday night because the priest serves several parishes. I wonder who gets him on Sunday morning?) I could see the inside lit. What a transformation! The light made the ancient walls dance in gray and taupe the way water poured on stones makes them glisten. The sweetness of antiquity. People in the church made it seem bigger and happier. Worth going, even if you\u2019re not Catholic. After Mass, the church goes to sleep again, so if you don\u2019t go to Mass, take a bright flashlight. Church of Saint-Georges For something more modern, outside the church by the parking lot there\u2019s a structure that looks like a baby version of I.M. Pei\u2019s Louvre pyramid. This covers a modest, visible portion of the Merovingian cemetery. You can see a few sarcophagi carved out of stone blocks from the ruins of the Gallo-Roman city. Maison du Patrimonie \u2013 small but nice archaeological museum On the other side of the church from the pyramid, there is an interesting archaeological museum in a 15th century house. The museum collection is small but exhibits are well displayed and all locally connected, covering from Roman times to the Middle Ages. On my most recent visit to N\u00e9ris, the museum seemed short staffed. The same friendly woman watched the doors, greeted guests and gave tours. When I arrived, there was a handmade sign on the door saying she was giving a tour. Two other patrons and I waited outside in the autumn chill until the tour finished. I think we all nearly gave up, but I\u2019m glad we didn\u2019t. The museum was pleasant, instructional, and warm. If you\u2019re into motorcycles, you might recognize the name Labre. Paul Labre lived in the house from about 1920 until he died in 1961. Paul and his brother Fran\u00e7ois were motorcycle pioneers, developing their first version in 1897. Paul\u2019s daughters were the last to live in the house. The living spaces of the house (now the museum) seem cozy and relatively modern. A local artist was exhibiting in the cellar, which is where you can see the 15th century bones of the house. Other sites, ancient and modern Gallo-Roman pools. The three Gallo-Roman swimming pools behind the Visitor Center and modern swimming pool are from the 1st and 2nd centuries. Archaeology tells us that they were originally covered with marble and surrounded by porticoes. Amphitheater traces. Where there were Romans, there was an amphitheater. Across the road from the pools and Visitor Center, the streets run in semicircles and the terraced earth of a park recalls the basic shape of the 315-foot (96-meter) diameter building. Baths. Les Thermes baths aren\u2019t Roman but they\u2019re built on the site of Roman baths. The first stone of today\u2019s Les Thermes was laid in 1826 by the Duchess of Angoul\u00eame. It\u2019s here that the curistes go for the cure, and Les Thermes may also offer non-medical treatments. (I suggest going across the square to Les N\u00e9riades.) There is a small neoclassical Caesar Pavilion built over the source of the thermal spring but it\u2019s not in use. Learn more about Roman N\u00e9ris at the Maison du Patrimonie Gallo-Roman pools Casino and Theater The Belle \u00c9poque building was competed in 1898. Neris casino and opera houseThe 300-seat theater was restored in 1987 and offers a variety of shows during the season. But I seem never to be there when a show\u2019s on so I admire the building from the outside. The adjacent casino seems like it\u2019s always open, but I haven\u2019t tried my luck. Train Station. The pink sandstone and granite train station with its colorful tile roof was built between 1929 and 1931. The idea was to provide for the influx of spa visitors. The rail experiment didn\u2019t last long. Now, the impressive viaducts and bridges that carried tracks over the hilly terrain carry the rail bed walking and bike trail with its pretty views. Pretty Houses. Along with the train station, the town has appealing houses from the Belle \u00c9poque and later. There are a couple of odd houses, too (a kind of enormous Pyrenees chalet for one). A walk around town is pleasant; the houses are all different. One of my favorites faces a small flowery green space and in its back yard, there\u2019s an enormous, breathtaking cedar, which I\u2019m glad isn\u2019t leaning over my house. Trip date: Most recent October 2015 Belle \u00c9poque building<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1622,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[20],"tags":[53,54],"class_list":["post-1621","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-europe","tag-central-france","tag-french-spa-towns"],"yoast_head":"\nDiscover N\u00e9ris-les-Bains: Architecture & Historical Sites<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Explore the rich heritage of N\u00e9ris-les-Bains, from Roman ruins to Belle \u00c9poque buildings. 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