{"id":1659,"date":"2017-05-20T16:14:00","date_gmt":"2017-05-20T16:14:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/?p=1659"},"modified":"2024-12-13T13:34:15","modified_gmt":"2024-12-13T13:34:15","slug":"warsaw-poland","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/warsaw-poland\/","title":{"rendered":"Warsaw, Poland"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Warsaw, Poland<\/h1>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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City and local notes: Line on Travel\u2019s vignettes of larger cities, well-known attractions, and short trips.<\/strong><\/p>

You see the slogan \u201cFall in Love with Warsaw\u201d with its cute logo all over town. And I did, for a lot of reasons. But when I first got there, I was curious instead of enraptured as I rode into the commercial center on a late summer weekday rush hour. What was the look? What kind of city was this? An architectural m\u00e9lange where tall modern buildings overlook the enormous Stalin-gothic Palace of Culture and Science. Communist-era architecture sidles up to blocks rebuilt in the old style. There are big parks and Chopin\u2019s music somehow figures into everyday life. All this in a city that had ceased to exist in 1945.There was so much to see and figure out, and I still have things that I\u2019ve left undone. More to learn in this welcoming city that came back from World War II\u2019s total destruction and depopulation.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Warsaw Impressions<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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This is an account of some of my experiences. It\u2019s not a travelogue \u2013 there are loads of guidebooks, and a lot more things that I could include here. But I also want to share more than I might for a similarly well-documented city. That\u2019s partly because while I\u2019ve read plenty of articles about Warsaw as an up-and-coming destination, I still don\u2019t know many Americans who think of Warsaw when it comes to picking European cities to visit. We should.<\/p>

Don\u2019t speak Polish? No worries. English is pretty much a lingua franca, so with adequate English getting around is easy. Don\u2019t think you\u2019ll like Polish food? Well, it\u2019s delicious and diverse and besides, you can find every cuisine you\u2019d expect to find in any other city this size that has a growing food scene. And there\u2019s no need to pack the kitchen sink. There are shopping malls where I found everything I needed but hadn\u2019t thought about, like wool socks and tights when I came back in late October. Plus all the brands you know from wherever home is.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Palace of Culture and Science\n<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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What else to do? I found some great museums, good food, a good public transportation system and enough palaces and gardens to keep me happy for days. I heard two piano recitals by winners of the 2015 International Chopin Piano Competition. There\u2019s lively night life, too, but night life for me was usually total collapse after a day roaming around. I do think it\u2019s important to get into Warsaw\u2019s history to some extent \u2013 it\u2019s essential to know some recent history to appreciate what you see. But it\u2019s not all about history class. Enjoy the flavors of Poland, stroll in the parks, visit museums, visit the shopping malls, and keep a list of things you want to do next time. There\u2019s so much I still want to experience and learn.<\/p>

Some background and thoughts about a few of the top sights<\/strong><\/p>

I suggest going early in your visit to the excellent Warsaw Uprising Museum,<\/strong> because it gives us visitors a context for everything we\u2019ll see in Warsaw. I went near the end of my first trip and wish I\u2019d gone earlier. Here\u2019s a little background.<\/p>

In 1939 Hitler invaded Poland from the west. The Soviets invaded from the east not long after. Hitler broke his pact with Soviet \u201callies\u201d and went on to invade the USSR and occupy all of Poland. After years of struggle, in 1944, Warsaw\u2019s underground home army tried to seize the city from the Nazis. After 63 days of fighting the home army surrendered, and in revenge, Hitler personally ordered the city razed to the ground, leaving only about 15% of greater Warsaw standing. From a population of about 1.3 million in 1939, in 1945, there were only about a thousand people living in the ruins. The Museum covers the events leading to the uprising and its aftermath. Be warned. This innovative museum is a warren of galleries and gets crowded, so ask around (for example, your hotel\u2019s concierge or local friends) about slower times, or just get there early. An audio guide (available in many languages) will help a lot. The destruction of Warsaw isn\u2019t the whole story, but for a preview of what that destruction was like, you can watch \u201cThe City of Ruins,\u201d Warsaw in 1945 on YouTube<\/a>. It\u2019s a montage of still photos made to look like a flight over the city. The 3D version that the Museum shows seems shorter and if I remember, spares you the music. Or you can also turn off the sound.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Old Town and Royal Castle<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Everyone is probably drawn first to the Old Town and Royal Castle. I was. What you\u2019ll see was scrupulously rebuilt according to pictures, photographs and documents. In the Castle, don\u2019t miss the Rembrandts but also be sure to look closely around you in the Canaletto Room that contains 22 townscapes of Warsaw painted by Canaletto between 1767 and 1780.<\/p>

You can see what a fine city Warsaw was, and these pictures among many other resources informed the rebuilding of the old town. If your Castle Museum ticket includes the Tin-Roofed Palace, visit this too. I don\u2019t know if everyone does. When I visited in August, there was only one other visitor there. This fine house has also been restored. The upper floor contains the apartment of Prince J\u00f3zef Poniatowski which I found pretty and intimate, even cozy. I\u2019d be happier living there instead of in the Castle, not that they offered. The helpful docent guided me back to a piano with knee levers that I\u2019d missed seeing, and I likewise guided the other visitor to it. He tolerated my mini tour well but must have wondered, \u201cWho is this woman and what is she saying to me?\u201d Downstairs, there\u2019s an exhibit of rugs and tapestries which I confess to skipping.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Sigismund Column and Castle Square rooftops\n<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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It\u2019s important to understand Warsaw\u2019s Jewish history, even if you\u2019re not Jewish. The POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews<\/strong> is another top sight. Pre-World War II, Poland had the largest Jewish population in Europe, and as many as 30% of Warsaw\u2019s residents were Jewish. Not so now. The POLIN Museum is brilliantly researched and curated, and it\u2019s in a stunning building. It was also the 2016 European Museum of the Year. It would take a long time to go through the Museum thoroughly, so if your time is short, pick up the \u201cOne Hour, Eight Highlights\u201d guide. I also picked up the \u201cJewish Women: 12 Highlights\u201d guide and combined the two. The reception staff were helpful and spoke good English. The only challenge might be maneuvering around visiting school groups.<\/p>

I read that along with visiting the Uprising Museum and the POLIN Museum, a visit to the Chopin Museum<\/strong> is essential to understanding Warsaw. That goes even if you\u2019re not a music lover. Fryderyk Franciszek Szopen or Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Chopin is a favorite son of Warsaw. (Yes, he was born down the road, but lived in Warsaw before he moved on to Paris.) And, Chopin\u2019s body may be buried in Paris but his heart\u2019s in Warsaw\u2019s Holy Cross Church (you can visit there, too). The Chopin Museum has a mix of high-tech interactive exhibits (your \u201cticket\u201d is a smart card), along with more traditional exhibits about Chopin\u2019s life. And I \u201cplayed\u201d a Chopin \u00c9tude by placing the score on a smart stand. That was kind of fun. I felt very artistic.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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\u0141azienski Park<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Another top sight, \u0141azienski Park is a short bus ride from the Centralna train station. Take a bus to Plac Unii Shopping City mall and \u0141azienski Park is a short walk. You can shop at Plac Unii, too, and there are plenty of places to eat nearby.<\/p>

\u0141azienski Park is a large wooded park, good for a stroll to break up the relentlessness of sightseeing. And, there are palaces to visit as well. \u0141azienski Park was like a festival the summer weekend day I went, with dancing, the brass and percussion sounds of band off somewhere, and families strolling around eating ice cream. Even nuns with cameras were strolling in the park. It was quieter when I went in the autumn, but there were still plenty of people around, sitting on benches, picking up tree nuts, playing with red squirrels to get pictures of their enormous tufted ears. I finally got to the \u0141azienski Palace (the Palace on the Water) in October, the centerpiece of the park, and another lovely palace badly damaged in World War II but refurbished and charming now. I was almost alone in the Palace that autumn day, and had plenty of time to pose for selfies. I have a nice picture of my reflection showing off the plastic booties you wear to protect the floors. The park trees were just turning \u2013 a pretty autumn afternoon. I caught a bus back to Centralna just outside the park, near the Chopin monument, where there are free concerts summer weekends.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Palace on the Water, \u0141azienski Park\n<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Wilan\u00f3w Palace<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Wilan\u00f3w Palace is on the outskirts of town. Don\u2019t be deterred by the apparent distance \u2013 it\u2019s not that far, and even without a car it\u2019s easy to get to. They call Wilan\u00f3w the \u201cPolish Versailles\u201d but no worries. It\u2019s smaller, and the royal apartments are just as delectable. This is the original palace \u2013 it survived World War II. It\u2019s all beautiful but I liked best the apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and Queen Maria Kazimiera. King Jan defeated the Ottoman Empire at Vienna in 1683, preserving Europe more or less as we know it. Important, and I didn\u2019t know, or didn\u2019t remember. And the King and Queen actually loved each other, which makes a nice story different from so many dynastic unions. Visit the park if you have time. I found the gardens nice, but the lakeshore wanted a little TLC, and there\u2019s the unfortunate view of what appears to be a power plant beyond one end the lake. No matter. Focus on the swans instead. Wilan\u00f3w is a longish but easy bus ride from Centralna. Make sure to note return times. If you\u2019re game, rent a bike. It would be a long ride but there are bike paths and remember that Warsaw is flat.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Wilan\u00f3w Palace, the Polish Versailles\n<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Some other sights: National Museum of Poland \u2013 Faras Gallery, State Ethnographic Museum and John Paul II Collection<\/strong><\/p>

There\u2019s a lot in Poland\u2019s National Museum<\/strong> but not all the galleries were open when I visited, which narrowed my focus to getting lunch and seeing a couple of the galleries that were open. I had the daily special in the Museum\u2019s caf\u00e9 where I found the food good and the atmosphere congenial. Back to the galleries, I was astounded by the museum\u2019s newest permanent gallery, the \u201cProfessor Kazimierz Micha\u0142owski Faras Gallery.\u201d This is described as \u201ccontaining Medieval Nubian paintings from the Nile River Valley south of the First Cataract.\u201d That doesn\u2019t half describe for me how wonderful the \u201cpaintings\u201d are. They\u2019re essentially frescoes from the ancient (8th century) Nubian Christian cathedral in Faras, a town that was going to be inundated because of Aswan High Dam construction. Polish archeologist Kazimierz Micha\u0142owski led the rescue team and artifacts were divided between Poland and Sudan. The Faras culture no longer exists. These large, strong paintings and artifacts are their legacy, and the only other place to see artifacts from Faras is in Khartoum. It\u2019s amazing. Go.<\/p>

I\u2019ve read that tourists don\u2019t often visit the State Ethnographic Museum<\/strong>, but to get a feel for Polish folk culture it deserves a visit. The first person I met at reception referred me to a man who not only spoke English but knew everything there was to tell about the museum. So I bought a combo ticket for all exhibits (the price is modest) and off I went. It\u2019s a big place with lots of galleries. Along with their permanent collection, the museum presents special exhibitions. I was happily surprised by \u201cBiblia Pauperum \u2013 The Art of the Poor and Excluded; Depictions of God in Folk Art.\u201d The exhibit presented the \u201cpeasants\u2019 take on the Bible and their understanding of the world . . . .\u201d It was interesting learning. The exhibit was in a bright gallery just beyond a subdued gallery full to the ceiling with farm equipment and rural household artifacts. Another exhibit that\u2019s now closed was certainly entertaining. \u201cFutbol Love Stories\u201d dressed mannequins in Polish folk costumes combined with international football (soccer) jerseys in a colorful and amusing display. I would just say to expect creativity when you go.<\/p>

The John Paul II (painting) Collection<\/strong> has slenderest connection to the late Pope, and I\u2019m not even sure it\u2019s connected at all except for the name. The collection is in Warsaw\u2019s old stock exchange building and the directional sign on the building is very small. The entry is through sort of a vestibule-cloakroom where a nice man and I talked \u2013 we didn\u2019t speak each other\u2019s language but you know how you manage to communicate. I knew just enough Polish to make a small joke and he quipped back. We both laughed. Then he opened a door and turned on lights in a small room. I thought this was the collection and it sure was small. I studied all the paintings and sculpture carefully so I wasn\u2019t just in and out. There were some famous names but not necessarily the best examples of their work. So, finally I exited the room, thinking I\u2019d be leaving, but the man walked across the vestibule and opened another door. This led to a succession of huge rooms, not conventional painting galleries as such, not well illuminated but hung high with artwork. I had no idea. If you have someone to tag along with, you won\u2019t feel that special kind of aloneness that I did in the rotunda, a very large space with a whiff of damp lit only through a skylight, where a lot of paintings stared down at me. Go, because a lot of people don\u2019t. And take a friend.<\/p>

To me, walking around<\/strong> is the best way to see things, although some neighborhoods are obviously prettier than others. The trams are handy when feet tire. I especially like walking along Nowy \u015awiat that becomes the pretty Krakowskie Przedmie\u015bcie leading to the Royal Castle. Of course after I\u2019d been up and down the street a couple of times, I was content to ride the bus. \u0141azienski Park is great for a walk, and I started taking short cuts through the Saxon gardens, and small streets near my hotel. I have a list of streets to explore next time that I read about in a Warsaw in Your Pocket article.<\/p>

There\u2019s a lot I haven\u2019t seen yet<\/strong><\/p>

Warsaw has made me want to know more. There\u2019s the interesting city itself and the allure of a nice place where most people I know haven\u2019t yet thought of going. Some of Warsaw\u2019s top sights are still on my to-visit list. I haven\u2019t been across the river to Praga and the Neon Museum, which is high on my list. There are more palaces to see in \u0141azienski Park. And there are some walking tours I want to take. There\u2019s night life that I\u2019ll probably still miss, although I\u2019ll look for concerts that appeal. Plenty still to do.<\/p>

Trip date:<\/strong> August and October 2016<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Warsaw, Poland City and local notes: Line on Travel\u2019s vignettes of larger cities, well-known attractions, and short trips. You see the slogan \u201cFall in Love with Warsaw\u201d with its cute logo all over town. And I did, for a lot of reasons. But when I first got there, I was curious instead of enraptured as I rode into the commercial center on a late summer weekday rush hour. What was the look? What kind of city was this? An architectural m\u00e9lange where tall modern buildings overlook the enormous Stalin-gothic Palace of Culture and Science. Communist-era architecture sidles up to blocks rebuilt in the old style. There are big parks and Chopin\u2019s music somehow figures into everyday life. All this in a city that had ceased to exist in 1945.There was so much to see and figure out, and I still have things that I\u2019ve left undone. More to learn in this welcoming city that came back from World War II\u2019s total destruction and depopulation. Warsaw Impressions This is an account of some of my experiences. It\u2019s not a travelogue \u2013 there are loads of guidebooks, and a lot more things that I could include here. But I also want to share more than I might for a similarly well-documented city. That\u2019s partly because while I\u2019ve read plenty of articles about Warsaw as an up-and-coming destination, I still don\u2019t know many Americans who think of Warsaw when it comes to picking European cities to visit. We should. Don\u2019t speak Polish? No worries. English is pretty much a lingua franca, so with adequate English getting around is easy. Don\u2019t think you\u2019ll like Polish food? Well, it\u2019s delicious and diverse and besides, you can find every cuisine you\u2019d expect to find in any other city this size that has a growing food scene. And there\u2019s no need to pack the kitchen sink. There are shopping malls where I found everything I needed but hadn\u2019t thought about, like wool socks and tights when I came back in late October. Plus all the brands you know from wherever home is. Palace of Culture and Science What else to do? I found some great museums, good food, a good public transportation system and enough palaces and gardens to keep me happy for days. I heard two piano recitals by winners of the 2015 International Chopin Piano Competition. There\u2019s lively night life, too, but night life for me was usually total collapse after a day roaming around. I do think it\u2019s important to get into Warsaw\u2019s history to some extent \u2013 it\u2019s essential to know some recent history to appreciate what you see. But it\u2019s not all about history class. Enjoy the flavors of Poland, stroll in the parks, visit museums, visit the shopping malls, and keep a list of things you want to do next time. There\u2019s so much I still want to experience and learn. Some background and thoughts about a few of the top sights I suggest going early in your visit to the excellent Warsaw Uprising Museum, because it gives us visitors a context for everything we\u2019ll see in Warsaw. I went near the end of my first trip and wish I\u2019d gone earlier. Here\u2019s a little background. In 1939 Hitler invaded Poland from the west. The Soviets invaded from the east not long after. Hitler broke his pact with Soviet \u201callies\u201d and went on to invade the USSR and occupy all of Poland. After years of struggle, in 1944, Warsaw\u2019s underground home army tried to seize the city from the Nazis. After 63 days of fighting the home army surrendered, and in revenge, Hitler personally ordered the city razed to the ground, leaving only about 15% of greater Warsaw standing. From a population of about 1.3 million in 1939, in 1945, there were only about a thousand people living in the ruins. The Museum covers the events leading to the uprising and its aftermath. Be warned. This innovative museum is a warren of galleries and gets crowded, so ask around (for example, your hotel\u2019s concierge or local friends) about slower times, or just get there early. An audio guide (available in many languages) will help a lot. The destruction of Warsaw isn\u2019t the whole story, but for a preview of what that destruction was like, you can watch \u201cThe City of Ruins,\u201d Warsaw in 1945 on YouTube. It\u2019s a montage of still photos made to look like a flight over the city. The 3D version that the Museum shows seems shorter and if I remember, spares you the music. Or you can also turn off the sound. Old Town and Royal Castle Everyone is probably drawn first to the Old Town and Royal Castle. I was. What you\u2019ll see was scrupulously rebuilt according to pictures, photographs and documents. In the Castle, don\u2019t miss the Rembrandts but also be sure to look closely around you in the Canaletto Room that contains 22 townscapes of Warsaw painted by Canaletto between 1767 and 1780. You can see what a fine city Warsaw was, and these pictures among many other resources informed the rebuilding of the old town. If your Castle Museum ticket includes the Tin-Roofed Palace, visit this too. I don\u2019t know if everyone does. When I visited in August, there was only one other visitor there. This fine house has also been restored. The upper floor contains the apartment of Prince J\u00f3zef Poniatowski which I found pretty and intimate, even cozy. I\u2019d be happier living there instead of in the Castle, not that they offered. The helpful docent guided me back to a piano with knee levers that I\u2019d missed seeing, and I likewise guided the other visitor to it. He tolerated my mini tour well but must have wondered, \u201cWho is this woman and what is she saying to me?\u201d Downstairs, there\u2019s an exhibit of rugs and tapestries which I confess to skipping. Sigismund Column and Castle Square rooftops It\u2019s important to understand Warsaw\u2019s Jewish history, even if you\u2019re not Jewish. 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