{"id":1792,"date":"2017-05-26T08:00:00","date_gmt":"2017-05-26T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/?p=1792"},"modified":"2024-12-13T13:10:50","modified_gmt":"2024-12-13T13:10:50","slug":"alaskas-dalton-highway-introduction-and-practicalities","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/alaskas-dalton-highway-introduction-and-practicalities\/","title":{"rendered":"Alaska\u2019s Dalton Highway: Introduction and Practicalities"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t<div data-elementor-type=\"wp-post\" data-elementor-id=\"1792\" class=\"elementor elementor-1792\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-31c60529 e-flex e-con-boxed wpr-particle-no wpr-jarallax-no wpr-parallax-no wpr-sticky-section-no wpr-column-slider-no wpr-equal-height-no e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"31c60529\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\" data-settings=\"{&quot;background_background&quot;:&quot;classic&quot;}\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-6fd8e206 e-con-full e-flex wpr-particle-no wpr-jarallax-no wpr-parallax-no wpr-sticky-section-no wpr-column-slider-no wpr-equal-height-no e-con e-child\" data-id=\"6fd8e206\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-774a9036 elementor-invisible elementor-widget elementor-widget-heading\" data-id=\"774a9036\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-settings=\"{&quot;_animation&quot;:&quot;fadeIn&quot;}\" data-widget_type=\"heading.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<h1 class=\"elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default\">Alaska\u2019s Dalton Highway: Introduction and Practicalities<\/h1>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-310f0eb e-flex e-con-boxed wpr-particle-no wpr-jarallax-no wpr-parallax-no wpr-sticky-section-no wpr-column-slider-no wpr-equal-height-no e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"310f0eb\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-b2762f1 elementor-invisible elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"b2762f1\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-settings=\"{&quot;_animation&quot;:&quot;fadeIn&quot;}\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>We got to be Ice Road Truckers fans at my house, driving the Dalton with every episode. But I never thought, \u201cWow! I want to do that!\u201d Like most of my trips, this one just came to me. I was pondering a late summer trip to somewhere new and preferably remote. I\u2019d been aurora viewing and dog mushing the previous winter, and Alaska came to mind again. So off I went in August when autumn had come to the Dalton and the Arctic was frosty.<\/p><p>See my post about the trip! \u201cRiding the Dalton Highway: ice road trucking before the freeze\u201d<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-1e064edb e-flex e-con-boxed wpr-particle-no wpr-jarallax-no wpr-parallax-no wpr-sticky-section-no wpr-column-slider-no wpr-equal-height-no e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"1e064edb\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-3ccce624 e-con-full e-flex wpr-particle-no wpr-jarallax-no wpr-parallax-no wpr-sticky-section-no wpr-column-slider-no wpr-equal-height-no e-con e-child\" data-id=\"3ccce624\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-2158f92b elementor-invisible elementor-widget elementor-widget-heading\" data-id=\"2158f92b\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-settings=\"{&quot;_animation&quot;:&quot;fadeIn&quot;}\" data-widget_type=\"heading.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<h2 class=\"elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default\">What\u2019s the Dalton like?\n\n<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-530df192 elementor-widget-divider--view-line elementor-widget elementor-widget-divider\" data-id=\"530df192\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"divider.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-divider\">\n\t\t\t<span class=\"elementor-divider-separator\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-49e407ed elementor-invisible elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"49e407ed\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-settings=\"{&quot;_animation&quot;:&quot;fadeIn&quot;}\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Alaska.org says: \u201cHow remote is it up here? There are only three very small towns along the way. Often, the Trans-Alaska pipeline, which runs parallel to the road, is a driver\u2019s only companion. And from the midpoint (the town of Coldfoot) to the end of the road (Deadhorse), you won\u2019t find gas stations, restaurants, rest stops, or hotels\u2014in fact, you won\u2019t find services of any kind over this entire 240-mile stretch. In other words, if you love lonely roads, this is the drive for you.\u201d<\/p><p>An Alaska driving guide I found in our Wiseman lodge read, \u201cThe Dalton Highway is unique in its scenic beauty,Heavy industrial traffic wildlife and recreational opportunities, but it is also one of Alaska\u2019s most remote, dangerous and challenging roads.\u201d<\/p><p>There\u2019s no cell phone coverage. The rest stops may have outhouses (and the bushes are preferable). There\u2019s no place for a snack. No medical facilities. And take the caution about industrial traffic to heart. This is the Haul Road. Every length of pipe, nail, canister of gas, load of fuel, hammer, acetylene torch, steel girder, pump, every bottle of Dawn, pair of gloves, can of soup, egg, leaf of lettuce and grain of salt \u2013 everything that\u2019s used in Deadhorse and the Prudhoe Bay oil fields gets there by truck. Do not get in the way.<\/p><p><strong>Gifts of the Dalton<\/strong><\/p><p>The Dalton drive was spectacular. Soulful, really. The ride gave me the gifts of isolation and timelessness, something most of us don\u2019t have much of. The Haul Road reminded me that going a distance can take patience. Over 800 miles on a muddy, gravel, washboarded road was more involved than a slow security line at the airport. We were off the grid, no cell coverage, no wifi. A CB radio. A satellite phone. I don\u2019t need to be constantly connected but this was different. Not possible, and the relief of not being connected was liberating. My mind could wander where it pleased. The markers of time and distance passing were far apart. The quality of Arctic light was unfamiliar; the sun was in a different place and during our drive, sunlight was often watery, even milky, as if it were another world. Even my journal notes lost their anchor in time.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-6c07ec e-con-full e-flex wpr-particle-no wpr-jarallax-no wpr-parallax-no wpr-sticky-section-no wpr-column-slider-no wpr-equal-height-no e-con e-child\" data-id=\"6c07ec\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-15c923cd elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"15c923cd\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"378\" height=\"385\" src=\"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Dalton-Wiseman.jpg\" class=\"attachment-full size-full wp-image-1795\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Dalton-Wiseman.jpg 378w, https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Dalton-Wiseman-295x300.jpg 295w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 378px) 100vw, 378px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-7605389 elementor-invisible elementor-widget elementor-widget-heading\" data-id=\"7605389\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-settings=\"{&quot;_animation&quot;:&quot;fadeIn&quot;}\" data-widget_type=\"heading.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<h6 class=\"elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default\">Is this the only intersection on the Dalton?<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-899ca59 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"899ca59\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"378\" height=\"385\" src=\"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Heavy-traffic.jpg\" class=\"attachment-full size-full wp-image-1796\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Heavy-traffic.jpg 378w, https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Heavy-traffic-295x300.jpg 295w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 378px) 100vw, 378px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-5bb2bc1 elementor-invisible elementor-widget elementor-widget-heading\" data-id=\"5bb2bc1\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-settings=\"{&quot;_animation&quot;:&quot;fadeIn&quot;}\" data-widget_type=\"heading.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<h6 class=\"elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default\">Make sure you read the sign closely<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-c910152 e-flex e-con-boxed wpr-particle-no wpr-jarallax-no wpr-parallax-no wpr-sticky-section-no wpr-column-slider-no wpr-equal-height-no e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"c910152\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-26b820a elementor-invisible elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"26b820a\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-settings=\"{&quot;_animation&quot;:&quot;fadeIn&quot;}\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>When I got back to Fairbanks, a woman at my hotel reception said, \u201cPeople come back and say \u2018it\u2019s a long drive,\u2019 and \u2018it\u2019s not what I expected.\u2019\u201d A cab driver told me that she thought some people were disappointed by the Arctic Circle. \u201cIt isn\u2019t much but a sign,\u201d she told me they\u2019d say. I wasn\u2019t disappointed! I knew I was on the Haul Road. I was in the Arctic. But I don\u2019t know that I expected anything in particular. Maybe it\u2019s better to be wonderfully surprised.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-060bf32 e-flex e-con-boxed wpr-particle-no wpr-jarallax-no wpr-parallax-no wpr-sticky-section-no wpr-column-slider-no wpr-equal-height-no e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"060bf32\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-6a43fa0 e-con-full e-flex wpr-particle-no wpr-jarallax-no wpr-parallax-no wpr-sticky-section-no wpr-column-slider-no wpr-equal-height-no e-con e-child\" data-id=\"6a43fa0\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-f7e2f73 elementor-invisible elementor-widget elementor-widget-heading\" data-id=\"f7e2f73\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-settings=\"{&quot;_animation&quot;:&quot;fadeIn&quot;}\" data-widget_type=\"heading.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<h2 class=\"elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default\">Dalton Practicalities<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-e43db8f elementor-widget-divider--view-line elementor-widget elementor-widget-divider\" data-id=\"e43db8f\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"divider.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-divider\">\n\t\t\t<span class=\"elementor-divider-separator\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-4fc686b elementor-invisible elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"4fc686b\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-settings=\"{&quot;_animation&quot;:&quot;fadeIn&quot;}\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Driving and sleeping (not simultaneously). If you want to drive the Dalton yourself, research the requirements for your vehicle and equipment. You\u2019ll need to rent a vehicle designed for the Dalton. And make arrangements ahead for someplace to stay. There aren\u2019t a lot of rooms out there. If you\u2019d rather bike it, we saw motorcyclists, bicyclists and even a unicyclist along the way. If you\u2019re biking or camping, I assume you know all about what to do in the wilderness. I hope so. I would be hopeless and have no advice. For a guide to milestones along the Dalton, see Alaska.org\u2019s guide here.<\/p><p>I chose to ride the Dalton with 1st Alaska Outdoor School. There were three passengers and a driver. The three of us passengers stayed at Uta\u2019s Arctic Getaway the first night, sharing a two-bedroom cabin. There were extra beds downstairs, enough for a mob of travelers, a fully equipped bathroom and a kitchenette. On the way back, we stayed at Boreal Lodge, also in Wiseman. Here, we had sleeping rooms that opened to a porch, a shared bathroom and a common kitchen. There is also a separate bathroom \u201cchalet\u201d near the lodge. Both Uta\u2019s and Boreal Lodge provided soap and towels. Uta\u2019s also offers breakfast but we left too early.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-7d1ae9a e-con-full e-flex wpr-particle-no wpr-jarallax-no wpr-parallax-no wpr-sticky-section-no wpr-column-slider-no wpr-equal-height-no e-con e-child\" data-id=\"7d1ae9a\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-5ad830d elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"5ad830d\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"378\" height=\"385\" src=\"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/An-arctic-afternoon.jpg\" class=\"attachment-full size-full wp-image-1797\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/An-arctic-afternoon.jpg 378w, https:\/\/lineontravel.com\/website_6fa5d958\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/An-arctic-afternoon-295x300.jpg 295w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 378px) 100vw, 378px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-72d26aa elementor-invisible elementor-widget elementor-widget-heading\" data-id=\"72d26aa\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-settings=\"{&quot;_animation&quot;:&quot;fadeIn&quot;}\" data-widget_type=\"heading.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<h6 class=\"elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default\">Arctic evening\n<\/h6>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-12db28f e-flex e-con-boxed wpr-particle-no wpr-jarallax-no wpr-parallax-no wpr-sticky-section-no wpr-column-slider-no wpr-equal-height-no e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"12db28f\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-e853671 elementor-invisible elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"e853671\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-settings=\"{&quot;_animation&quot;:&quot;fadeIn&quot;}\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>A few basic supplies.<\/strong> 1st Alaska Outdoor School sent snacks and water along in the van, but I wanted more and hadn\u2019t taken enough of my own water, almonds and granola bars. Experienced caravaners and campers Ulrike and Bernhard brought fruit and nuts. They graciously shared. The company put hand sanitizer in the van, but I also took my own, along with plenty of pocket packs of tissues that were handy for those trips to the bushes. I wore my favorite Palladium boots, hiking socks and cords. For whatever reason, the mud didn\u2019t leave permanent stains. Maybe I\u2019m just a good laundress. It was chilly. A fleece and rain jacket were adequate although I also needed my knit hat at Prudhoe Bay.<\/p><p><strong>Wildlife.<\/strong> We saw a lot of birds, swans, Brandt geese and many other geese and waterfowl. Hawks, one sitting on a kill near the road. There were ptarmigan everywhere. The only moose we saw stood in a meadow near Wiseman and in the gloaming of that second night, we couldn\u2019t even take pictures to prove it! We had marmot sightings, and saw what we thought were Arctic chipmunks or ground squirrels and Arctic hares. Dall sheep in the mountains. It was caribou season opener and we saw no live caribou but plenty of dead ones as hunters loaded them into pickup trucks. That\u2019ll keep the freezer full. At the Bureau of Land Management\u2019s Arctic Interagency Visitor Center there was a funny white board with daily wildlife sightings. One day the list included four moose. Another day, 3 ravens and a dragonfly.<\/p><p><strong>BLM Arctic Interagency Visitor Center<\/strong>. Our second afternoon, we visited the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.blm.gov\/learn\/interpretive-centers\/arctic-interagency-visitor-center\">BLM Arctic Interagency Visitor Center<\/a> near Coldfoot. It\u2019s clean, informative and well-curated. We stayed for a gold panning demonstration presented by an intern. I\u2019d thought it would be a little ho-hum, but turned out to be very interesting and nicely presented. And, the audience was invited to try panning. So don\u2019t skip any demos on offer. Stop at the Visitor Center. It\u2019s in an appropriate Arctic cabin style but so thoroughly modern (including great bathrooms) that it was almost improbable to find it here. The Center is closed in winter.<\/p><p><strong>Trip date:<\/strong> August 2015<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Alaska\u2019s Dalton Highway: Introduction and Practicalities We got to be Ice Road Truckers fans at my house, driving the Dalton with every episode. But I never thought, \u201cWow! I want to do that!\u201d Like most of my trips, this one just came to me. I was pondering a late summer trip to somewhere new and preferably remote. I\u2019d been aurora viewing and dog mushing the previous winter, and Alaska came to mind again. So off I went in August when autumn had come to the Dalton and the Arctic was frosty. See my post about the trip! \u201cRiding the Dalton Highway: ice road trucking before the freeze\u201d What\u2019s the Dalton like? Alaska.org says: \u201cHow remote is it up here? There are only three very small towns along the way. Often, the Trans-Alaska pipeline, which runs parallel to the road, is a driver\u2019s only companion. And from the midpoint (the town of Coldfoot) to the end of the road (Deadhorse), you won\u2019t find gas stations, restaurants, rest stops, or hotels\u2014in fact, you won\u2019t find services of any kind over this entire 240-mile stretch. In other words, if you love lonely roads, this is the drive for you.\u201d An Alaska driving guide I found in our Wiseman lodge read, \u201cThe Dalton Highway is unique in its scenic beauty,Heavy industrial traffic wildlife and recreational opportunities, but it is also one of Alaska\u2019s most remote, dangerous and challenging roads.\u201d There\u2019s no cell phone coverage. The rest stops may have outhouses (and the bushes are preferable). There\u2019s no place for a snack. No medical facilities. And take the caution about industrial traffic to heart. This is the Haul Road. Every length of pipe, nail, canister of gas, load of fuel, hammer, acetylene torch, steel girder, pump, every bottle of Dawn, pair of gloves, can of soup, egg, leaf of lettuce and grain of salt \u2013 everything that\u2019s used in Deadhorse and the Prudhoe Bay oil fields gets there by truck. Do not get in the way. Gifts of the Dalton The Dalton drive was spectacular. Soulful, really. The ride gave me the gifts of isolation and timelessness, something most of us don\u2019t have much of. The Haul Road reminded me that going a distance can take patience. Over 800 miles on a muddy, gravel, washboarded road was more involved than a slow security line at the airport. We were off the grid, no cell coverage, no wifi. A CB radio. A satellite phone. I don\u2019t need to be constantly connected but this was different. Not possible, and the relief of not being connected was liberating. My mind could wander where it pleased. The markers of time and distance passing were far apart. The quality of Arctic light was unfamiliar; the sun was in a different place and during our drive, sunlight was often watery, even milky, as if it were another world. Even my journal notes lost their anchor in time. Is this the only intersection on the Dalton? Make sure you read the sign closely When I got back to Fairbanks, a woman at my hotel reception said, \u201cPeople come back and say \u2018it\u2019s a long drive,\u2019 and \u2018it\u2019s not what I expected.\u2019\u201d A cab driver told me that she thought some people were disappointed by the Arctic Circle. \u201cIt isn\u2019t much but a sign,\u201d she told me they\u2019d say. I wasn\u2019t disappointed! I knew I was on the Haul Road. I was in the Arctic. But I don\u2019t know that I expected anything in particular. Maybe it\u2019s better to be wonderfully surprised. Dalton Practicalities Driving and sleeping (not simultaneously). If you want to drive the Dalton yourself, research the requirements for your vehicle and equipment. You\u2019ll need to rent a vehicle designed for the Dalton. And make arrangements ahead for someplace to stay. There aren\u2019t a lot of rooms out there. If you\u2019d rather bike it, we saw motorcyclists, bicyclists and even a unicyclist along the way. If you\u2019re biking or camping, I assume you know all about what to do in the wilderness. I hope so. I would be hopeless and have no advice. For a guide to milestones along the Dalton, see Alaska.org\u2019s guide here. I chose to ride the Dalton with 1st Alaska Outdoor School. There were three passengers and a driver. The three of us passengers stayed at Uta\u2019s Arctic Getaway the first night, sharing a two-bedroom cabin. There were extra beds downstairs, enough for a mob of travelers, a fully equipped bathroom and a kitchenette. On the way back, we stayed at Boreal Lodge, also in Wiseman. Here, we had sleeping rooms that opened to a porch, a shared bathroom and a common kitchen. There is also a separate bathroom \u201cchalet\u201d near the lodge. Both Uta\u2019s and Boreal Lodge provided soap and towels. Uta\u2019s also offers breakfast but we left too early. Arctic evening A few basic supplies. 1st Alaska Outdoor School sent snacks and water along in the van, but I wanted more and hadn\u2019t taken enough of my own water, almonds and granola bars. Experienced caravaners and campers Ulrike and Bernhard brought fruit and nuts. They graciously shared. The company put hand sanitizer in the van, but I also took my own, along with plenty of pocket packs of tissues that were handy for those trips to the bushes. I wore my favorite Palladium boots, hiking socks and cords. For whatever reason, the mud didn\u2019t leave permanent stains. Maybe I\u2019m just a good laundress. It was chilly. A fleece and rain jacket were adequate although I also needed my knit hat at Prudhoe Bay. Wildlife. We saw a lot of birds, swans, Brandt geese and many other geese and waterfowl. Hawks, one sitting on a kill near the road. There were ptarmigan everywhere. The only moose we saw stood in a meadow near Wiseman and in the gloaming of that second night, we couldn\u2019t even take pictures to prove it! We had marmot sightings, and saw what we thought were Arctic chipmunks or ground squirrels<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1793,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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