Uruguay

Montevideo, Uruguay – A New City, One Week, Not Much Free Time Could I get a sense of place in a few days? I was in Ecuador in June 2024, and the people I met and worked with made me want to learn South American Spanish. So, I started looking at schools in several cities for an in-person jump start to learning. One thing on my mind was that not knowing much Spanish, I’d do better in a location without the frisson of risk some appealing cities presented. Stable, pleasant, important, big but not too big. And pretty. That’s how I came to choose Montevideo, and Academia Uruguay. (Another bonus: Rioplatense as well as standard Spanish usage – and I’m continuing with Academia Uruguay online.) Great choices, both of city and school. My goal was to study; but I also wanted to know where I was. I’d be in class half the time, and doing homework, too – would I leave with a sense of place, or would Montevideo be only a backdrop? I felt good in Montevideo, and in the end, got that feeling I wanted, if not a complete picture of the city, because nearly all my time was spent in the Ciudad Vieja (Old City), where Academia Uruguay is located. I also explored some adjacent neighborhoods on foot but had no time for day trips around Uruguay, or even for jaunts to the beaches, parks, and restaurants outside Montevideo’s center. But it was still wintry, anyway. So, how did that feeling of “place” evolve? I think by seeing as many culturally important sites as I could, learning how to make yerba mate (at the Academia!), talking to people, and trying to speak Spanish. I also went to a terrific concert and got to know my way around by wandering. And importantly, there was my sense of mission. In the morning, when school students went off in their uniforms, and people headed to their jobs, I also had somewhere to go. I was supposed to be in this place. I belonged here and felt like that belonging showed. Getting settled on a quiet weekend My short list of “must-sees” included the central Plaza Independencia with the heroic equestrian statue of José Artigas, the soldier and revolutionary leader regarded as the father of Uruguayan independence, and his Mausoleo located beneath the monument; Palacio Salvo; and Teatro Solis. The riverside Rambla was on the list, as was my neighborhood, Ciudad Vieja. I stayed at the Radisson Victoria on Plaza Independencia, so saw the Artigas monument as my airport ride approached the hotel. Later, ready to explore, I walked to Ciudad Vieja. It was the end of winter, quiet, with many cafés, stores, and churches closed on that sunny Saturday afternoon. If the usual flea market had set up in the morning, everyone had already packed and left. (Now, in January 2025, my teacher said the city’s full of tourists, with three cruise ships in.) But following the principal street, Sarandí, brought me to the pedestrianized Calle Pérez Castellano that leads to the Mercado del Puerto, the old port market building, which was hopping with parrillos grilling up asados and filling the market with blueish smoke, buzzing with cacophonous conversations, and pleasantly crowded on both Saturday afternoon and on Sunday. Outside near the Mercado and up the street, the sun was shining, cafes were full, and the mood was happy. I enjoyed walking and looking but, in the end, ate at my hotel. Equestrian statue of José Gervasio Artigas in Montevideo Uruguay First, though, I stopped in Ciudad Vieja’s central and oldest square, Plaza Matriz (Plaza de la Constitución) where trees were still bare and the big fountain under repair. Enough people to be congenial, but no crowds. It’s a lovely place in summer; my teacher showed me pictures. At the smaller Plaza Zabala nearby, I found families out together, kids playing, and an appealing busker with a repertory from classical guitar to crooner songs. A tranquil weekend. Then on Monday I started classes.   Seeing the Top Sights I was off season, so had to watch opening times carefully. Still, I saw the most important sites, and walking along the riverside Rambla was always a sure thing. There are also dedicated, green-colored bike lanes if you fancy a bike trek. Getting to Plaza Independencia and the Artigas monument from the hotel was via a zebra crossing. I’m familiar with them but another North American I met agreed that they were a little scary in Montevideo. Traffic does stop – have courage! But back to Artigas, the Mausoleo below the plaza is part of the memorial. It’s a big, airy space that houses Artigas’s remains in a large urn guarded by members of Blandengues de Artigas, an army cavalry regiment charged among other things with certain ceremonial duties. They have great uniforms, too, and once coming back from class I saw a changing of the guard accompanied by the regimental band. Impressive. The Mausoleo is free, and I’ve seen that it’s open until five in the afternoon (17:00), but it varied when I was there in winter. You can always come another time if the heavy chain is across the stairs. Palacio Salvo The next core sight is Palacio Salvo at the east end of Plaza Independencia, once South America’s tallest building. An Italian immigrant who made good in Uruguay built the Palacio as a grand hotel (it’s apartments and businesses now). The Bradt guide to Uruguay (Uruguay, by Tim Burford, 4th edition, 2022) likens the Palacio’s tower to a Jules Verne-designed rocket with booster rockets strapped to the sides. It has a shorter sibling in Buenos Aires. The finest fittings were imported from Europe, and a building tour highlights the elegant materials and artistry. (Check times for your language of choice – I just walked in and asked instead of searching online.) I was alone on the English tour, which includes the tower-top observation room (you stay inside). The