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Bird Island, North Carolina: Kindred Spirit Mailbox

Bird Island, North Carolina: Kindred Spirit Mailbox Kindred Spirit Mailbox is a legendary place with its own Facebook page. But I’d never heard of it until one beautiful, February weekend on the North Carolina coast. The mailbox is a place where you can communicate with other chance passersby, people you’ll probably never know. It’s the kind of place you’d expect to find at the end of a long trail, on a far hilltop or an isolated beach. And that’s exactly the kind of place, on the shore of North Carolina’s last barrier island before the South Carolina border, where a friend took me to meet the Kindred Spirit. And although I’d never heard of it, the box has been there for four decades (replaced when storms periodically swept it to sea). North Carolina’s Our State Magazine estimates 100,000 people have visited. A lot of visits, but out of all the travelers on the planet, that’s not a lot after all. What is Kindred Spirit? A simple mailbox with hardware-store letters spelling Kindred Spirit and its red flag permanently raised. The mailbox is stocked with steno pads and pens, inviting all to share with other kindred spirits their innermost feelings or a simple “hello,” and leave the message in the box. Stand and write or sit on a nearby bench. Volunteers tend the box and gather up full tablets that they deliver to the University of North Carolina Wilmington where many are archived. There was an original Kindred Spirit, a woman who supposedly got the box started. Frank Nesmith, a 90-year-old who dated the spirit briefly years ago says her name was Claudia. Atlas Obscura says, According to most stories, the Kindred Spirit Mailbox was first erected after the Kindred Spirit saw a mirage of a mailbox on the shore during low tide. Although the vision wasn’t real, they were inspired to plant a mailbox with a communal notebook so that visitors could leave proof of their having been there. Use of the mailbox quickly caught on and visitors flocked to the island to sit on a nearby bench, look out over the water and write their own personal message inside the mailbox’s journal. The kindred spirit mailbox People seek it out. My friend said that outsiders drive around Sunset Beach thinking they’ll find it at the end of a street. That wouldn’t be worthy. You need to walk and it’s almost half a mile from the Sunset Beach pier. Getting there is intentional. And it’s important to read what others have written – the messages are communications to other kindred spirits. I read some that said simply it’s been a while, but I’m back. Another message was as natural as if the person were speaking to me. The writer started out talking about mundane household illnesses and then segued to “Parenting is tough. Teenagers suck. I know because I was one. I’m sorry mom.” The writer talked about herself and her daughter. “Let us find peace,” she concluded. Others praised the beauty of the place. I wrote something, but I didn’t open up – just told the Kindred Spirit that I hadn’t known about it before, also wrote about the beauty of the place and implored the other spirits to “Save our wild places!” I felt like a cheat. Some people are so personal. The walk to the box from Sunset Beach to the Bird Island state preserve is on wide, white sand beaches alongside high dunes (eroded badly by Hurricane Matthew), and just on the other side of dunes from over a thousand acres of creeks and salt marsh. It’s more or less connected to Sunset Beach, the way all of these watery barrier islands are sort of connected – or not. I was there on a 70-degree weekend in February. We walked on and on, seven and a half miles altogether that day, barefoot in the sand. Hard to see why this would fail to appeal, although you might want shoes. I said that driving to the box wouldn’t be worthy, so what do I think of the Kindred Spirit’s web site and Facebook page? You can even post messages. It’s OK. Even kindred spirits need to update. But to feel the real Kindred Spirit’s nearness, you have to be there, standing in the sand, the ocean wind blowing, sounds of the shore and the marsh around you. And then write. Trip date: February 2017

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Moncks Corner, South Carolina: Mepkin Abbey Crèche Festival

Moncks Corner, South Carolina: Mepkin Abbey Crèche Festival City and local notes: Line on Travel’s vignettes of larger cities, well-known attractions, and short trips. Monck’s Corner isn’t far from Charleston, SC, and if you’re there generally mid-November to early December, here’s something unusual you might enjoy – the Mepkin Abbey Crèche Festival. Monck’s Corner Mepkin Abbey is a Trappist monastery on the Cooper River in Monck’s Corner. The Abbey is on property that was part of a rice plantation founded in 1762. In 1949, a large part of the plantation grounds was donated for the purpose of founding the Abbey. A crèche is essentially a manger scene. For three weeks in late November – December, the Abbey holds a crèche festival, displaying some of the 800 or more crèches in its collection. Donated crèches continue to grow the collection. Several thousand visitors descend on the Abbey during the Festival. Volunteers assist with the parking and I found them good humored and a bit of a tease. Somehow, they’d learned from a friend that on the way to the Abbey, I had needed a Triple-A winch-out from a ditch and might be past the time on my ticket. Thanks to those who told on me, the parking volunteers made loudly sure I didn’t park near any dips in the lot. The ditch incident was a whole other travel story that led to new friends and had a happy ending. But back to the crèches.   Mepkin Abbey One thing to like about the Abbey’s collection is its diversity. Crèches come from artists in all parts of the world and are reflections of their lives and environments. Some are extraordinary in their size and detail. Some are large outdoor sculptures and others are flat art. They show traditional scenes, people of color and women, the nurturing side of men. The artist Janet McKenzie said about her painting “Jesus of the People” that it “pays homage to people of color and women, two groups traditionally underrepresented or left out of iconic images of Christ.” She said her painting wasn’t intended to create controversy (although it did) – “I simply hoped my then-15 year old nephew, a young man of color, might find renewed joy in seeing a version of his beautiful, dark face reflected back in my interpretation of Jesus.” The creativity and inspiration underpinning each crèche is coherent to me, the same way the intricate handwork in garments sent to the Holy Infant of Prague is understandable. Visitors vote on their favorite crèche each year, and I could pretty much tell who would “win.” It would be deserved, too. I voted for another crèche that it turns out was by one of the same artists who worked on the eventual winner. But as I left that evening, the image that kept appearing to me was a simple, beautiful scene by a Palestinian artist. It was a desert scene with the three kings, animals, Mary, Joseph and tiny Jesus. What I kept seeing was the joyous Joseph, usually just a supporting actor but here the most memorable to me of all the figures. You don’t have to be religious to enjoy the festival. It can be mind-expanding. And the grounds of the Abbey are serene, with beautiful camellias, giant and dwarf, blooming in the Low Country autumn. Live oaks with Spanish moss, spider lilies, American white ibis all over the place. Alligators too, so mind the water. Visit the original owner’s family graveyard and take heart that one of the sons was an abolitionist. I grant the graveyard’s a little somber on a late afternoon (I’m not directly saying creepy). Maybe visit the graves earlier in the day. There’s an Abbey gift shop where I bought fruit cakes (I love them!), golden rice, and Father Joe’s “Food for Thought” cookbook. Simple fare from the Abbey kitchens. There are plenty of good places to eat in the vicinity. It’s the Low Country, after all. Trip date: November 2015

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